Yangshuo - Amazing Limestone Peaks
This is my blog for my trip to Taiwan. I'll be posting my journal here from November 1 to November 17, 2017 so check back and join me on the trip ! - Bill Wilson
July 9, 2004
China in the country, Hong Kong in the big city, and the end of a wonderful trip
Had another smooth flight in the Chinese transportation system here, from Wuhan to Guilin. The Chinese do it right. Tourism will boom here. Glad I got here before it goes wild. Beijing hosts the olympics in 2008. It will all be "discovered" then if not sooner.
Got in late in Guilin, so just stayed there at a hotel near where they dropped me off the bus. You get used to suddenly being in a strange place, at night, and the “touts” (people who get a small commission to take you to their hotel or guest house) are hounding you as you get off the bus or train. This time I followed the first tout, It was late, I needed a place to crash. How about the Bright Pearl Guilin Hotel? Sounds good to me. Turned out to be a little run down for the cheap room, but it will do. Got a/c, shower, bed, that’s all I need. Paid about $15, now that’s a rip off here in this small town market, ..haaa but now is the time you translate to US dollars and rationalize. The word here is to get to Yangshuo as soon as you can and get out of Guilin. They are right, Guilin on the surface looks like another big tourist town.
Got on the bus to Yangshuo in the morning, worked slick. Then found the International Hosteling local hostel. Old standby, the IYH, usually comes through with a nice place. This is my home for the next 4 days. Clean nice, some fun people here, all for 20 Y a day, that’s about 2 ½ US Dollars a day! Big difference in prices when you stay in the country.
Words cannot describe this place, you must see the pictures. When I’m back I’ll load a bunch on the cheapy yahoo site for you all to see. The most impressive was not particularly the beauty of the scenery, but the chance to experience the Chinese countryside. Went on a day long bicycle ride out in the country around Yangshuo and also a nice cruise down the river Li. This is country, I mean water buffalo drawn plows, back breaking labor in rice fields, carrying balancing loads with bamboo poles over their shoulders. And most of these people were my age or much older. What a contrast. Booming, big money China in the big cities, but still things out here haven’t changed in hundreds, maybe thousands of years. When will all this “new china” money get down to the working people?? The only way I see it is through tourism
Who knows.
Then a wild “sleeper” ride from Yangshuo to Hong Kong. Sleeper, yea right!! It looked like a jungle gym inside a big double deecker bus. About 40 little cubicles, big enough to fit a small Chinese person. Hmmm no feet or leg room. Haaaaaaa well big deal, its all part of the adventure.
Arrived in Hong Kong early AM, then taxi to border, then train into town. Called friends I met online a few years back, Frida and Shimon from Israel. They insist I stay with them. They are wonderful people. Shimon is an executive in a shipping firm here. They have a lovely, 4000 sq foot flat in a high rise overlooking the downtown. This is heaven. Frida is my tour guide for next couple of days, as we visit this incredible city. Huge, tall, minimum high rise here I think is 40 stories. Busy people, moving all with their own agendas.
I took a trip out on Landau Island, then thru the maze of walkways downtown, the “escalators” carrying people up the hills and through quaint little narrow streets with restaurants and shops. And shopping, wow this is the place. Everything you can imagine, jade market, pearl market, food market, clothes market. One should bring an extra suitcase when they come here. Amazingly beautiful city.
Well its come to an end folks. I’m writing here on July 9, my last day. As I look back, I have been blessed with another incredible adventure. This one was bigger than I imagined. Two countries, two distinct cultures. Many great people I met along the way. I think I only was truly alone for about 2 or 3 days out of the 40 on the road. That’s a success. I have many new friends including my wonderful "family" in Russia I want to keep in touch with. That’s the gift, that’s the adventure’s reward.
Well thanks for staying with me, I enjoyed your notes, many just at the right time. It was good to hear from home.
Until next time,
Yours in Travel
Bill
Got in late in Guilin, so just stayed there at a hotel near where they dropped me off the bus. You get used to suddenly being in a strange place, at night, and the “touts” (people who get a small commission to take you to their hotel or guest house) are hounding you as you get off the bus or train. This time I followed the first tout, It was late, I needed a place to crash. How about the Bright Pearl Guilin Hotel? Sounds good to me. Turned out to be a little run down for the cheap room, but it will do. Got a/c, shower, bed, that’s all I need. Paid about $15, now that’s a rip off here in this small town market, ..haaa but now is the time you translate to US dollars and rationalize. The word here is to get to Yangshuo as soon as you can and get out of Guilin. They are right, Guilin on the surface looks like another big tourist town.
Got on the bus to Yangshuo in the morning, worked slick. Then found the International Hosteling local hostel. Old standby, the IYH, usually comes through with a nice place. This is my home for the next 4 days. Clean nice, some fun people here, all for 20 Y a day, that’s about 2 ½ US Dollars a day! Big difference in prices when you stay in the country.
Words cannot describe this place, you must see the pictures. When I’m back I’ll load a bunch on the cheapy yahoo site for you all to see. The most impressive was not particularly the beauty of the scenery, but the chance to experience the Chinese countryside. Went on a day long bicycle ride out in the country around Yangshuo and also a nice cruise down the river Li. This is country, I mean water buffalo drawn plows, back breaking labor in rice fields, carrying balancing loads with bamboo poles over their shoulders. And most of these people were my age or much older. What a contrast. Booming, big money China in the big cities, but still things out here haven’t changed in hundreds, maybe thousands of years. When will all this “new china” money get down to the working people?? The only way I see it is through tourism
Who knows.
Then a wild “sleeper” ride from Yangshuo to Hong Kong. Sleeper, yea right!! It looked like a jungle gym inside a big double deecker bus. About 40 little cubicles, big enough to fit a small Chinese person. Hmmm no feet or leg room. Haaaaaaa well big deal, its all part of the adventure.
Arrived in Hong Kong early AM, then taxi to border, then train into town. Called friends I met online a few years back, Frida and Shimon from Israel. They insist I stay with them. They are wonderful people. Shimon is an executive in a shipping firm here. They have a lovely, 4000 sq foot flat in a high rise overlooking the downtown. This is heaven. Frida is my tour guide for next couple of days, as we visit this incredible city. Huge, tall, minimum high rise here I think is 40 stories. Busy people, moving all with their own agendas.
I took a trip out on Landau Island, then thru the maze of walkways downtown, the “escalators” carrying people up the hills and through quaint little narrow streets with restaurants and shops. And shopping, wow this is the place. Everything you can imagine, jade market, pearl market, food market, clothes market. One should bring an extra suitcase when they come here. Amazingly beautiful city.
Well its come to an end folks. I’m writing here on July 9, my last day. As I look back, I have been blessed with another incredible adventure. This one was bigger than I imagined. Two countries, two distinct cultures. Many great people I met along the way. I think I only was truly alone for about 2 or 3 days out of the 40 on the road. That’s a success. I have many new friends including my wonderful "family" in Russia I want to keep in touch with. That’s the gift, that’s the adventure’s reward.
Well thanks for staying with me, I enjoyed your notes, many just at the right time. It was good to hear from home.
Until next time,
Yours in Travel
Bill
July 6, 2004
Wuhan China, July 1, 2004 I'm the only one wearing flip-flops!
Hey, remember we said the flip flops were invented in China, and there are over a billion people here! Well, the only people wearing flip flops are the backpackers!! Chinese all wear the more comfortable, plastic slip on slippers. Haaaa, smart people.
Some other funny differences here:
1. You have no space in crowds. At an ATM, the next guy in line was literally on my back!
2. No diapers here. Little kids wear pants with a split in the back. They just stop along the curb and pee or crap. Hmmmm
3. In the middle of China, people are not used to seeing western foreigners. You get stared at a lot. Deep stares.
4. Tourist systems are very good. Its easy to travel here, and some very good bargains.
5. When its hot, the men like to roll their clothes up. They roll their pants up and roll their T shirts up above the nipples. Hilarious
6. Women want to keep their skin white. They even use whiteners for their skin. You see many sun umbrellas all over the city. If you get tan, it makes you look like a country peasant, so they like to stay white.
7. Just about the time you think the Chinese are rude, or don’t care about foreigners, someone does you a big favor. If you do a little favor, like take a picture of people together for them, later you seem to get so many offers for help. The people here are basically wonderful, but sometimes this is hidden under shyness.
Got off the Yangzi cruise boat in the rain, only time I’ve had to use the rain gear so far, been lucky.
Got on a bus to Wuhan, another large river city on the east end of the normal river cruise area around the 3 gorges. Off and running on the bus to Wuhan, and as we approach the city, a big verbal yelling match breaks out on the bus. It turns out many of the Chinese on the bus learn that the bus drops us off outside of town, not in the center. No way to convince the driver so we all loose. We must get cabs to the center of town.
Now you might be wondering how I found all this out, no I don’t know that much Chinese yet. On the bus I met a couple from England. Neil, retired from the paper business, and his native Chinese wife Fen. Boy Fen was really hollering at the driver she was doing the best she could to get him to change the route. She learned English when she was 20 years old, some 25 years ago at the University in Wuhan as a student there.
I decided to just get a cab with Fen and Neil, since I had no fixed place to stay yet. The hotel they had booked was lovely, sort of on the outskirts of town, in a wooded area. The Wuhan Guest house. My single room was good price, so I’m set. I tour the town and the next morning Neil and Fen invite me to breakfast with them, then invite me to join them on a prearranged city tour with two of Fens old school mates. This is the first time she has been back here since a student at 20 years old.
This turned out to be a fantastic memorable experience. Its amazing how little adventures show up on these trips. Besides touring East Lake in Wuhan, we walked the University of Wuhan, thru Fens old dormitory and library. Little had changed, same desks, same walls.
It was an awesome experience to watch Fen relive her childhood, see her old dorm. Now remember in 1975 when she went to school here it was the Mao era. She h ad to work hard for 4 years in the farm, and since she had a good attitude and worked hard, she was selected to go to the university, with her whole program being selected for her. She had no say in it at all. Since she was good with speaking, they picked English studies for her. She remembers sitting on the steps, reading and memorizing the works of Chairman Mao. Her first English words were the works of chairman Mao translated into English!! And all other books were poison!! She and her friend sneaked into the back room of the library back then and found the works of Dickens and she can remember reading them in secret.
Wow, and here we are almost 30 years later, with the new China.
This was an incredible experience to watch her relive those days.
I say good bye to Neil and Fen, exchange emails and hope to get in touch again. Now I’m off to Guilin and Yangshuo
Catch you later,
Yours in travel
Bill
Some other funny differences here:
1. You have no space in crowds. At an ATM, the next guy in line was literally on my back!
2. No diapers here. Little kids wear pants with a split in the back. They just stop along the curb and pee or crap. Hmmmm
3. In the middle of China, people are not used to seeing western foreigners. You get stared at a lot. Deep stares.
4. Tourist systems are very good. Its easy to travel here, and some very good bargains.
5. When its hot, the men like to roll their clothes up. They roll their pants up and roll their T shirts up above the nipples. Hilarious
6. Women want to keep their skin white. They even use whiteners for their skin. You see many sun umbrellas all over the city. If you get tan, it makes you look like a country peasant, so they like to stay white.
7. Just about the time you think the Chinese are rude, or don’t care about foreigners, someone does you a big favor. If you do a little favor, like take a picture of people together for them, later you seem to get so many offers for help. The people here are basically wonderful, but sometimes this is hidden under shyness.
Got off the Yangzi cruise boat in the rain, only time I’ve had to use the rain gear so far, been lucky.
Got on a bus to Wuhan, another large river city on the east end of the normal river cruise area around the 3 gorges. Off and running on the bus to Wuhan, and as we approach the city, a big verbal yelling match breaks out on the bus. It turns out many of the Chinese on the bus learn that the bus drops us off outside of town, not in the center. No way to convince the driver so we all loose. We must get cabs to the center of town.
Now you might be wondering how I found all this out, no I don’t know that much Chinese yet. On the bus I met a couple from England. Neil, retired from the paper business, and his native Chinese wife Fen. Boy Fen was really hollering at the driver she was doing the best she could to get him to change the route. She learned English when she was 20 years old, some 25 years ago at the University in Wuhan as a student there.
I decided to just get a cab with Fen and Neil, since I had no fixed place to stay yet. The hotel they had booked was lovely, sort of on the outskirts of town, in a wooded area. The Wuhan Guest house. My single room was good price, so I’m set. I tour the town and the next morning Neil and Fen invite me to breakfast with them, then invite me to join them on a prearranged city tour with two of Fens old school mates. This is the first time she has been back here since a student at 20 years old.
This turned out to be a fantastic memorable experience. Its amazing how little adventures show up on these trips. Besides touring East Lake in Wuhan, we walked the University of Wuhan, thru Fens old dormitory and library. Little had changed, same desks, same walls.
It was an awesome experience to watch Fen relive her childhood, see her old dorm. Now remember in 1975 when she went to school here it was the Mao era. She h ad to work hard for 4 years in the farm, and since she had a good attitude and worked hard, she was selected to go to the university, with her whole program being selected for her. She had no say in it at all. Since she was good with speaking, they picked English studies for her. She remembers sitting on the steps, reading and memorizing the works of Chairman Mao. Her first English words were the works of chairman Mao translated into English!! And all other books were poison!! She and her friend sneaked into the back room of the library back then and found the works of Dickens and she can remember reading them in secret.
Wow, and here we are almost 30 years later, with the new China.
This was an incredible experience to watch her relive those days.
I say good bye to Neil and Fen, exchange emails and hope to get in touch again. Now I’m off to Guilin and Yangshuo
Catch you later,
Yours in travel
Bill
July 5, 2004
Trans Mongolian Railway (Read after Surprise Visit) :) 6-30
Hi all,
Well I'm way behind in my blogs on the trip only because of one reason
censorship. My blogsite has fallen prey to the Chinese communist censorship Iguess. That is the ONLY element of communism I have witnessed here. It's booming! Busy streets, cities can't handle the traffic. Tourism is in full swing and everything is bargain basement low. China is incredible.
So I may be sending this to some of you via email, back to the old system. I'm trying a couple of tricks to try to get it uploaded on blogspot, but so far it's not working.
The last report that didn't upload to the site covered the end to my trip in Russia.I boarded the trans Mongolian railway, early on June 19. My way cool homestay owner got up at 5AM to make sure that the taxi got there on time, great guy. The train was a bit old, but adequate. I paid for second class, that gets me acabin for 4 people.
I opened the door, and was greeted with a big smile from Nadzeera. She is anative of Irkutsk, where every winter is 40 below. Nadzeera could not speak aword of English, not one word. For the next 12 hours we had the mostfascinating conversation by using a Russian/English dictionary!! The time flew.We learned about each others background painfully slowly, something that wouldhave probably taken one hour! But it taught me something about language.Usually you have a 5 minute encounter using a dictionary. But with this long atime, with expressions, shrugs, laughs, non-verbal communication comes through remarkedly well. She wouldn't let me buy food, she shared all her pre-made Russian food, bread, salad. I found out she had lost her house in a fire, was leaving her 20 year old son and 13 year old daughter to get a new job in UlanBaator, Mongolia. New job, new city, new people in a city in the middle ofMongolia. Now there is guts. Quite a lady. Later at a small city, the otherpassengers, all Chinese, joined us to fill up the cabin.
The Mongolian countryside is amazing. This is the Gobi desert, but not sand.It's a grassland much like I saw in Patagonia last year. Hump grasses, shadesof greens, then browns, fantastic skys. Passed many native houses called Yertsor Gurs. These are white, round with one door. Around them are usually a herdof horses. Out the top is the vent of a wooden stove. Also I saw many camelsroaming wild in this land. I traveled for hours over this Steppe land. Actually3 and 1/2 days!! Over the ancient trading route between Russia and China.
The customs procedure can only be described as downright harassment! Of the 3 days, over 14 hours were spent waiting full stop, waiting for customs orimmigration to process papers and stamp your passport!! And all this was donein the middle of the night, right when you are trying to get some sleep. Also,Russia has a different rail width for their cars. So when we crossed the borderto China, we moved the train into the bogie house, and all the wheels underour cars were rolled out from under us while we were in the cars, and changedout with ones that were 3 1/2 inches wider!! That was a 4 hour process.
Fascinating.
I wish I had more time. The thing to do§ here is to stop at Ulan Baator, andtake a one week, 4_wheel drive trip out in the Mongolian plain. You visit andeat in Yerts with Mongolian families. A great experience. The dining car was discovered!!! Great food, read in the guide books they usually are bad..WRONG. Beer, food, wow I?m in heaven, and watching the vastness of this land roll by.
Well I arrived in Beijing. After nice, solemn, quiet 3 days, I'm suddenly(with my New Zealand friends I met on board) thrown out into the hot, busytrainstation with full pack on to be introduced to this new city. I'm inChina. And we are called fresh tourist meat, ready to be preyed upon! First the ATM, to get Chinese Yuan. After money, then a cab to my Hostel, then groceries for lunch for tour of the Great Wall tomorrow.
Back with you for Beijing experience.
Well I'm way behind in my blogs on the trip only because of one reason
censorship. My blogsite has fallen prey to the Chinese communist censorship Iguess. That is the ONLY element of communism I have witnessed here. It's booming! Busy streets, cities can't handle the traffic. Tourism is in full swing and everything is bargain basement low. China is incredible.
So I may be sending this to some of you via email, back to the old system. I'm trying a couple of tricks to try to get it uploaded on blogspot, but so far it's not working.
The last report that didn't upload to the site covered the end to my trip in Russia.I boarded the trans Mongolian railway, early on June 19. My way cool homestay owner got up at 5AM to make sure that the taxi got there on time, great guy. The train was a bit old, but adequate. I paid for second class, that gets me acabin for 4 people.
I opened the door, and was greeted with a big smile from Nadzeera. She is anative of Irkutsk, where every winter is 40 below. Nadzeera could not speak aword of English, not one word. For the next 12 hours we had the mostfascinating conversation by using a Russian/English dictionary!! The time flew.We learned about each others background painfully slowly, something that wouldhave probably taken one hour! But it taught me something about language.Usually you have a 5 minute encounter using a dictionary. But with this long atime, with expressions, shrugs, laughs, non-verbal communication comes through remarkedly well. She wouldn't let me buy food, she shared all her pre-made Russian food, bread, salad. I found out she had lost her house in a fire, was leaving her 20 year old son and 13 year old daughter to get a new job in UlanBaator, Mongolia. New job, new city, new people in a city in the middle ofMongolia. Now there is guts. Quite a lady. Later at a small city, the otherpassengers, all Chinese, joined us to fill up the cabin.
The Mongolian countryside is amazing. This is the Gobi desert, but not sand.It's a grassland much like I saw in Patagonia last year. Hump grasses, shadesof greens, then browns, fantastic skys. Passed many native houses called Yertsor Gurs. These are white, round with one door. Around them are usually a herdof horses. Out the top is the vent of a wooden stove. Also I saw many camelsroaming wild in this land. I traveled for hours over this Steppe land. Actually3 and 1/2 days!! Over the ancient trading route between Russia and China.
The customs procedure can only be described as downright harassment! Of the 3 days, over 14 hours were spent waiting full stop, waiting for customs orimmigration to process papers and stamp your passport!! And all this was donein the middle of the night, right when you are trying to get some sleep. Also,Russia has a different rail width for their cars. So when we crossed the borderto China, we moved the train into the bogie house, and all the wheels underour cars were rolled out from under us while we were in the cars, and changedout with ones that were 3 1/2 inches wider!! That was a 4 hour process.
Fascinating.
I wish I had more time. The thing to do§ here is to stop at Ulan Baator, andtake a one week, 4_wheel drive trip out in the Mongolian plain. You visit andeat in Yerts with Mongolian families. A great experience. The dining car was discovered!!! Great food, read in the guide books they usually are bad..WRONG. Beer, food, wow I?m in heaven, and watching the vastness of this land roll by.
Well I arrived in Beijing. After nice, solemn, quiet 3 days, I'm suddenly(with my New Zealand friends I met on board) thrown out into the hot, busytrainstation with full pack on to be introduced to this new city. I'm inChina. And we are called fresh tourist meat, ready to be preyed upon! First the ATM, to get Chinese Yuan. After money, then a cab to my Hostel, then groceries for lunch for tour of the Great Wall tomorrow.
Back with you for Beijing experience.
Night Market in Xian - June 25-28
June 25 - 28
Wow, what a train. The train I took to Xian from Beijing was a brand new Chinese train. Each car had a cute, young Chinese girl with sharply styled uniform standing at attention waiting to help you. And the cabins, all new. Each bed, I was in a four bed cabin, had a flat screen tv at the foot of the bed with a selection of first run movies. What a contrast to my trans Mongolian train!!
On the train down, I see the "real" China. Back country farm homes, narrow valleys with huge red banners. People out doing Tai Chi in the morning, workers in the field doing work with NO mechanized equipment, all hand labor.
Xian is a remarkable city. Another BIG city, which is also booming. The center of the city is surrounded by a giant wall. It is an old fortress wall for protection. As with most Chinese cities I've visited, the infrastructure is not prepared for all the growth. It took 20 minutes to go 200 yards out of the train station to get into the city. On the west side of Xian, there are huge sky scrapers, new buildings, and cranes everywhere. More impressions that China is booming. I th ink I heard their GNP growth rate is over 10%. Traffic is always heavy, then when the peaks hit, it's a madhouse.
The Xian stay was a fun social experience. Sometimes the hostels are, sometimes they aren't, depending on your luck who you meet. For the three days, I hooked up with Jan, and American just finishing a Peace Corps assignment in Khasitstan, Sharon from New Zealand, and George (Georgia) from Manchester England. George was amazing, that cute deep English accent, (that many times I had to concentrate hard to understand..haaaaaaaaaaa). She is a lawyer there in Manchester, and hopes to perform consumer protection defense for people.
The major attraction here are the terracotta warrior statues. This was a whole day tour, we did ourselves by taking city and country buses out to the site. The hostel tour was too expensive.
What an incredible place. In 1975, a farmer while digging near the tomb of an emporer, discovered some clay figures. Turns out there are about 6000 of them. A whole army. The emporer had this clay army made to protect him in the afterlife. Each figure had a different face!!! they were all unique. there were chariots with horses, and orginally they were painted and holding weapons. The site has been turned into a major archilogical dig site, with huge buildings built over the excavations. Only pictures can show the incredible work this was. This was an amazing tour.
We all did the "night market" for three nights. This was in the Muslim quarter of Xian. When it gets dark, you walk under the big arch of the Drum Tower in the wall and the whole street lights up with vendors and street cooking. The Muslims love the meats on skewers and barbeque right on the street. Mutton, beef, and some weird chicken.
We also had pot boiled food. Like the old fondue pot, only with a hot soup that is boiling. You stick skewers in with various meats and vegetables. Wow, why don't we do this at home, it would be huge. For as long as the eye can see, lights down the street, smoke from the street barbeques, and lots of people. Mostly Chinese by the way.
I'm getting used to being stared at. I mean STARED at. Not casual stares, deep stares. Some are bold enough to just keep staring at me. I thought it was my age or my beard until I compared notes with the other fellow travelers. Haaaaaaaaaa its funny, we all just laugh at it. And after awhile you get used to it. It does tell me though, that not many foreigners come here. They say in Hong Kong, this doesn't happen, there are plenty of foreigners there.
Boy it's hot here. Record heat, its between 38 and 40 Deg C. If you calculate that out it has been over 100 deg F. In this heat, you tour early in the morning, then spend time around the hostel in the air conditioning mid day, then go out at night.
Well I'll say goodbye to Xian and to the great friends I met here. We all exchanged email names and plan to stay in touch. I fly down to Chongqing, where I'll pick up the boat for my river cruise. I was lucky, this hostel books transportation, so I was able to book my flights as well as the cruise.
See you on the Yangzi,
Yours in travel,
Bill
Wow, what a train. The train I took to Xian from Beijing was a brand new Chinese train. Each car had a cute, young Chinese girl with sharply styled uniform standing at attention waiting to help you. And the cabins, all new. Each bed, I was in a four bed cabin, had a flat screen tv at the foot of the bed with a selection of first run movies. What a contrast to my trans Mongolian train!!
On the train down, I see the "real" China. Back country farm homes, narrow valleys with huge red banners. People out doing Tai Chi in the morning, workers in the field doing work with NO mechanized equipment, all hand labor.
Xian is a remarkable city. Another BIG city, which is also booming. The center of the city is surrounded by a giant wall. It is an old fortress wall for protection. As with most Chinese cities I've visited, the infrastructure is not prepared for all the growth. It took 20 minutes to go 200 yards out of the train station to get into the city. On the west side of Xian, there are huge sky scrapers, new buildings, and cranes everywhere. More impressions that China is booming. I th ink I heard their GNP growth rate is over 10%. Traffic is always heavy, then when the peaks hit, it's a madhouse.
The Xian stay was a fun social experience. Sometimes the hostels are, sometimes they aren't, depending on your luck who you meet. For the three days, I hooked up with Jan, and American just finishing a Peace Corps assignment in Khasitstan, Sharon from New Zealand, and George (Georgia) from Manchester England. George was amazing, that cute deep English accent, (that many times I had to concentrate hard to understand..haaaaaaaaaaa). She is a lawyer there in Manchester, and hopes to perform consumer protection defense for people.
The major attraction here are the terracotta warrior statues. This was a whole day tour, we did ourselves by taking city and country buses out to the site. The hostel tour was too expensive.
What an incredible place. In 1975, a farmer while digging near the tomb of an emporer, discovered some clay figures. Turns out there are about 6000 of them. A whole army. The emporer had this clay army made to protect him in the afterlife. Each figure had a different face!!! they were all unique. there were chariots with horses, and orginally they were painted and holding weapons. The site has been turned into a major archilogical dig site, with huge buildings built over the excavations. Only pictures can show the incredible work this was. This was an amazing tour.
We all did the "night market" for three nights. This was in the Muslim quarter of Xian. When it gets dark, you walk under the big arch of the Drum Tower in the wall and the whole street lights up with vendors and street cooking. The Muslims love the meats on skewers and barbeque right on the street. Mutton, beef, and some weird chicken.
We also had pot boiled food. Like the old fondue pot, only with a hot soup that is boiling. You stick skewers in with various meats and vegetables. Wow, why don't we do this at home, it would be huge. For as long as the eye can see, lights down the street, smoke from the street barbeques, and lots of people. Mostly Chinese by the way.
I'm getting used to being stared at. I mean STARED at. Not casual stares, deep stares. Some are bold enough to just keep staring at me. I thought it was my age or my beard until I compared notes with the other fellow travelers. Haaaaaaaaaa its funny, we all just laugh at it. And after awhile you get used to it. It does tell me though, that not many foreigners come here. They say in Hong Kong, this doesn't happen, there are plenty of foreigners there.
Boy it's hot here. Record heat, its between 38 and 40 Deg C. If you calculate that out it has been over 100 deg F. In this heat, you tour early in the morning, then spend time around the hostel in the air conditioning mid day, then go out at night.
Well I'll say goodbye to Xian and to the great friends I met here. We all exchanged email names and plan to stay in touch. I fly down to Chongqing, where I'll pick up the boat for my river cruise. I was lucky, this hostel books transportation, so I was able to book my flights as well as the cruise.
See you on the Yangzi,
Yours in travel,
Bill
The Great Wall - July 3rd
The Great Wall - I'm in China!
Hello all, sorry again this has taken so long to upload, but the blogspot is censored over here. Wouldn't you know!!
I arrived in Beijing, and stayed the first night at the Youth hostel. They had a tour arranged to go to a remote spot on the Great Wall of China, away from the usual touristy spots. I hooked up with a Swiss couple who I met on the train over, we went together on the tour. And boy was it remote, took 3 hours to drive there, and three hours back. Then we hiked the wall, 9 Km !! in the 90 degree, humid heat. You can see from my pictures, my shirt is a bit dark, I was soaked. I don't do humidy well, I'm finding that out!
What a fantastic historical structure. To think of thousands of peasants building this great wall, many to their deaths, and many actually were buried inside the wall. The wall spreads over some 4100 miles in various sections that remain. Its over 2000 years old. Its an incredible site, I'm thrilled to have "Climbed the wall" The damn T-shirt they were selling was real cheesy, so I resisted.
The rest of my time In Beijing I stayed with Kenny Melton. I met Kenny on the Baja surfing trip I took last summer. Kenny was touring Vietnam, and decided to come up to Beijing and work teaching English. It was great to see him again, and he was my tour guide for Beijing. Had some great dinners out with his friends, who also teach here. Big demand for English here in China.
Kenny and I visited the Forbidden City, Tianamen Square, and the temple of heaven. The forbidden city was the home since the 1400's for 24 emperors, and was closed to Chinese citizens for over 500 years!!! I think it open up in 1924. But an incredible example of 15th century Chinese architecture.. I can see why it is a world heritage site.
Beijing is an incredibly big and busy city. Sky scrapers, traffic. I'm getting the impression that China is really booming.
Kenny took me to the Beijing West Train station to send me off to Xian. I will take a night train there, this time 1st class!! (Only $12 more). The train station was HUGE, unbelievable,. and the people watching was remarkable. Some Chinese very dressed up with Gucci bags, and some people from the country, with all their belongings in a blanket tied with a knot at the top sitting waiting to travel. There are real diverse economic backgrounds here.
Off to Xian, and the Terracotta warriors, until next time
Yours in travel,
Bill
Hello all, sorry again this has taken so long to upload, but the blogspot is censored over here. Wouldn't you know!!
I arrived in Beijing, and stayed the first night at the Youth hostel. They had a tour arranged to go to a remote spot on the Great Wall of China, away from the usual touristy spots. I hooked up with a Swiss couple who I met on the train over, we went together on the tour. And boy was it remote, took 3 hours to drive there, and three hours back. Then we hiked the wall, 9 Km !! in the 90 degree, humid heat. You can see from my pictures, my shirt is a bit dark, I was soaked. I don't do humidy well, I'm finding that out!
What a fantastic historical structure. To think of thousands of peasants building this great wall, many to their deaths, and many actually were buried inside the wall. The wall spreads over some 4100 miles in various sections that remain. Its over 2000 years old. Its an incredible site, I'm thrilled to have "Climbed the wall" The damn T-shirt they were selling was real cheesy, so I resisted.
The rest of my time In Beijing I stayed with Kenny Melton. I met Kenny on the Baja surfing trip I took last summer. Kenny was touring Vietnam, and decided to come up to Beijing and work teaching English. It was great to see him again, and he was my tour guide for Beijing. Had some great dinners out with his friends, who also teach here. Big demand for English here in China.
Kenny and I visited the Forbidden City, Tianamen Square, and the temple of heaven. The forbidden city was the home since the 1400's for 24 emperors, and was closed to Chinese citizens for over 500 years!!! I think it open up in 1924. But an incredible example of 15th century Chinese architecture.. I can see why it is a world heritage site.
Beijing is an incredibly big and busy city. Sky scrapers, traffic. I'm getting the impression that China is really booming.
Kenny took me to the Beijing West Train station to send me off to Xian. I will take a night train there, this time 1st class!! (Only $12 more). The train station was HUGE, unbelievable,. and the people watching was remarkable. Some Chinese very dressed up with Gucci bags, and some people from the country, with all their belongings in a blanket tied with a knot at the top sitting waiting to travel. There are real diverse economic backgrounds here.
Off to Xian, and the Terracotta warriors, until next time
Yours in travel,
Bill
Surprise Visit - June 15, 2004
Well it's my last day here in Russia (June 16, 2004). Today was going to be just shopping, want to pick up a couple of Winter Russian hats, and look at jewelry styles. Russian jewelry is very well made, much better than Chinese, and they have amber stones found only here in Russia.
On the way to shopping area, Vadim said we will go by the cemetery. A surprise visit. Hmmm, well ok..Well as it turned out, this was the cemetery for the war dead from the siege of old Saint Petersburg or Leningrad during WWII.. Nearly 490,000 people lost there lives here in this city during the siege against the German invaders. Stop, and think about the number for a moment. The siege went on for 900 days. It was extremely moving; walking by long graves sites where the bodies of unknown innocent civilians lay buried. Marked only with a date; 1942, 1943, 1944, 1945. All Russian school children are required to visit this cemetery, and discuss the history of this serene moving place. Something that should be practiced in another country I'm thinking of. It really made me think, as I watched a woman in her 70's, walk silently alone along the gravesites, reflecting perhaps about a long lost relative. A reminder of a dark time in Russian history. Moving.
My family drove me to the airport south of the city. I will fly to Irkutsk, in East Siberia, my hub to hop the Mongolian Railway thru Mongolia, on to China. I bumped into a Russian man traveling to Irkutsk who spoke English, he took me under his wing thru the flight process, which is much different than at our airports, and this was the domestic airport with very few English signs.
Fun though, I made plane.
It was difficult to say goodbye to Vadim, Olga and Sveta. We have grown very close. We all decided this was not goodbye, but "see you next time"!! This lovely country, beautiful cities and lovely people will be visited again my me for sure. I wish more American tourists would discover this gem.
Flew to Irkutsk, stayed in this small town for two days, visited Lake Baikal, the deepest freshwater lake in the world. It holds 20% of the worlds fresh water supply!. Beautiful place. Took a tour of the city which still possess some of the oldest examples of all wooden houses, going back to 1890's. An early rise on the 19th, and I hoped on the Trans Mongolian Railway. My 3 day odyessy across Mongolia, the old trade route between Russia and China. I'll be in Beijing on June 21.
Just a few differences I've noted while in Russia between them and us
Russians wear t here wedding ring on the right hand Hardly any business suits here, very casual Most live in apartments in the city, and have second homes in the country Cars rule!!! Pedestrians have No rights Business men carry pursesThe current fashion for shoes are very long and pointed, haaaaaaaaa like pixey shoes, some toes point up.
Some fashionable young women walk together arm in arm on the crowded streets Russian custom: Sit down for a minute, relax think, before you embark on a long trip Some russian men and women have more than one spouse. No salad dressings here, just mayonnaise! Kraft, get your stuff together, big market.
On to Mongolia, see you again soon. Still trying to get more pictures up, will try in a few days. Ok, I already arrived in Beijing, I'll tell you about the trip next, everything fantastic. Beijing is amazing. Bye for now
Yours in Travel,
Bill
On the way to shopping area, Vadim said we will go by the cemetery. A surprise visit. Hmmm, well ok..Well as it turned out, this was the cemetery for the war dead from the siege of old Saint Petersburg or Leningrad during WWII.. Nearly 490,000 people lost there lives here in this city during the siege against the German invaders. Stop, and think about the number for a moment. The siege went on for 900 days. It was extremely moving; walking by long graves sites where the bodies of unknown innocent civilians lay buried. Marked only with a date; 1942, 1943, 1944, 1945. All Russian school children are required to visit this cemetery, and discuss the history of this serene moving place. Something that should be practiced in another country I'm thinking of. It really made me think, as I watched a woman in her 70's, walk silently alone along the gravesites, reflecting perhaps about a long lost relative. A reminder of a dark time in Russian history. Moving.
My family drove me to the airport south of the city. I will fly to Irkutsk, in East Siberia, my hub to hop the Mongolian Railway thru Mongolia, on to China. I bumped into a Russian man traveling to Irkutsk who spoke English, he took me under his wing thru the flight process, which is much different than at our airports, and this was the domestic airport with very few English signs.
Fun though, I made plane.
It was difficult to say goodbye to Vadim, Olga and Sveta. We have grown very close. We all decided this was not goodbye, but "see you next time"!! This lovely country, beautiful cities and lovely people will be visited again my me for sure. I wish more American tourists would discover this gem.
Flew to Irkutsk, stayed in this small town for two days, visited Lake Baikal, the deepest freshwater lake in the world. It holds 20% of the worlds fresh water supply!. Beautiful place. Took a tour of the city which still possess some of the oldest examples of all wooden houses, going back to 1890's. An early rise on the 19th, and I hoped on the Trans Mongolian Railway. My 3 day odyessy across Mongolia, the old trade route between Russia and China. I'll be in Beijing on June 21.
Just a few differences I've noted while in Russia between them and us
Russians wear t here wedding ring on the right hand Hardly any business suits here, very casual Most live in apartments in the city, and have second homes in the country Cars rule!!! Pedestrians have No rights Business men carry pursesThe current fashion for shoes are very long and pointed, haaaaaaaaa like pixey shoes, some toes point up.
Some fashionable young women walk together arm in arm on the crowded streets Russian custom: Sit down for a minute, relax think, before you embark on a long trip Some russian men and women have more than one spouse. No salad dressings here, just mayonnaise! Kraft, get your stuff together, big market.
On to Mongolia, see you again soon. Still trying to get more pictures up, will try in a few days. Ok, I already arrived in Beijing, I'll tell you about the trip next, everything fantastic. Beijing is amazing. Bye for now
Yours in Travel,
Bill
June 15, 2004
A Visit to Moscow, Suzdal and Vladimir
On Thursday night June 10, the whole family including Vadim’s daughter Sveta and I took off for Moscow. We also planned to visit Suzdal and Vladimir, two cities in the Golden Ring, a group of cities northeast of Moscow that preceded the present capital of Moscow. This was the political and cultural heart of Russia in the 1100’s and earlier. The Vladimir-Suzdal princedom preceded Moscow as the capital back then. These towns are one of the few that have examples of preserved architecture going back to the 12th century. Much of this area was destroyed with the invasion of the Mongols in the 16th century. A visit to these towns was an incredible visual history lesson on Russia (Ross eee ya! Here)
The trip to Moscow is a 9 hour drive, about 700 or so kilometers. The highway is a fast paced, three lane motorway, with the center lane a passing lane for both directions (remember those in California back in the 50’s and 60’s?? we called them slaughter alleys..haa).
Although Vadim is an excellent driver, many times we call him “Shumacher” of Formula I fame, the road is still wild. In Russia, you don’t recognize the usual “space” you have on the road in the US. On passing you get about 4 feet away from the car in front, then swing out and hold your breath. Nine hours each way. Wow. The ride over was rough, because it was all night long. Then the next day I was falling asleep in the car tour of Moscow. Not again. The ride back during the day, was pleasant and fun, despite the roads bumpy conditions. But keeping with the working schedule, it would have been tough to take an additional day for the family to make the ride up during the day. No problem, the tour was incredible
Sveta, Vadim’s daughter is a delight. Her command of English is amazing. She began her English lessons at only 6 years old, with a demanding teacher on pronunciation. So even her pronunciation is excellent. As my English speaking guide, she made the trip so much more rewarding. She also knows her cities well.
Moscow was busy. Propka, the word for traffic jam, was used many times in the car. I think they have expanded too much here. Estimated population is 11 million. It resembles St Petersburg in the outskirts with high rise residential wherever you look, highrise..and more highrise.
I asked Vadim why so much highrise in Russian cities? You have such a big country. I told him that we build out ward and low in America. He said, yes our country is big but much of it is unusable, so we must preserve the land that is usable. Hmmm makes good sense. Something to consider at home.
We met Vadims Friend Ury, who would be our guide for the whole trip. We met at Mc Donald’s of course!! Ury works for the city police. Haaaa and this really helped. Parking was no problem, just drive up ON THE SIDE WALK, park and comeback when you want! Different rules here.
We toured the city, drove up to red square and the Kremlin, with excitement. Walked up to the barricaded gate with guards galore, and found out due to security for the Independence day celebration for VIP’s, red square is closed until the 15th!!! Yea right, Bill comes all the way to Russia, and its closed. Reminds me of the scene with Chevy Chase and Wallyworld !!! Oh well, chalk one more up for the influence of terrorists.
So we drove around the Kremlin and Red Square and took pictures. Visited many memorials. Town is full of sculptures and memorials to WWII, beautiful peaceful walks. The city is nice, has much appeal, but with traffic and busy-busy life here, St. Petersburg wins. There is however in both big cities, lots of parks and green tree lined streets. Good planning has made the city life somewhat appealing here.
On to Vladimir and Suzdal. This was the highlight of the Moscow trip. I have some great shots of ancient (12th century churches), flowing river, fields of flowers. Everything green green green. We toured a reconstructed old village, with windmills, peasant homes and churches. Very nice visual history lesson. Independence day, June 12, is what I would call the new independence day here. This was the day Russians recognize as their day of independence after the break up of the Soviet Union in 1991. We toured both of these historical cities on that day. It was a special treat, the streets were blocked off for walking, they had festivals with crafts, parachute jumpers, the whole bit. A fun look at how they celebrate here.
The last day, Sunday, we decided to “tour” the Moscow metro. Moscow’s metro, has more than any other major city metro I’ve ever been on, some beautiful wall coverings and mosaics in the stations on the main line circling the city. Many stations have themes, or dedications to some group, like mariners, world peace etc.
We decided to stop at city center and just see if the Red square was open. And IT WAS!!! Oh this is good!! So I did get to tour red square after all. Pictures only tell the story. The Kremlin, where President Putin resides, was still closed, but I was really happy to tour the square. It was still decorated with huge emblems of the country and city shields. This must have been quite a celebration here for VIP’s.
It was good to be back to St Petersburg! It feels like home compared to the busy city life in Moscow.
No time to upload pictures today, look for them tonight (15th or tomorrow 16th)
Well it’s a couple more days here, then I fly a distance about equivalent to twice across the US, to Irkutsk in eastern Siberia. Wow, that has a ring to it doesn’t it. Eastern Siberia. I hope to prove it IS a nice place to see! I will stay there for 2 days before boarding the Trans Mongolian railway on across Mongolia to China.
More later..
Yours in Travel
Bill
The trip to Moscow is a 9 hour drive, about 700 or so kilometers. The highway is a fast paced, three lane motorway, with the center lane a passing lane for both directions (remember those in California back in the 50’s and 60’s?? we called them slaughter alleys..haa).
Although Vadim is an excellent driver, many times we call him “Shumacher” of Formula I fame, the road is still wild. In Russia, you don’t recognize the usual “space” you have on the road in the US. On passing you get about 4 feet away from the car in front, then swing out and hold your breath. Nine hours each way. Wow. The ride over was rough, because it was all night long. Then the next day I was falling asleep in the car tour of Moscow. Not again. The ride back during the day, was pleasant and fun, despite the roads bumpy conditions. But keeping with the working schedule, it would have been tough to take an additional day for the family to make the ride up during the day. No problem, the tour was incredible
Sveta, Vadim’s daughter is a delight. Her command of English is amazing. She began her English lessons at only 6 years old, with a demanding teacher on pronunciation. So even her pronunciation is excellent. As my English speaking guide, she made the trip so much more rewarding. She also knows her cities well.
Moscow was busy. Propka, the word for traffic jam, was used many times in the car. I think they have expanded too much here. Estimated population is 11 million. It resembles St Petersburg in the outskirts with high rise residential wherever you look, highrise..and more highrise.
I asked Vadim why so much highrise in Russian cities? You have such a big country. I told him that we build out ward and low in America. He said, yes our country is big but much of it is unusable, so we must preserve the land that is usable. Hmmm makes good sense. Something to consider at home.
We met Vadims Friend Ury, who would be our guide for the whole trip. We met at Mc Donald’s of course!! Ury works for the city police. Haaaa and this really helped. Parking was no problem, just drive up ON THE SIDE WALK, park and comeback when you want! Different rules here.
We toured the city, drove up to red square and the Kremlin, with excitement. Walked up to the barricaded gate with guards galore, and found out due to security for the Independence day celebration for VIP’s, red square is closed until the 15th!!! Yea right, Bill comes all the way to Russia, and its closed. Reminds me of the scene with Chevy Chase and Wallyworld !!! Oh well, chalk one more up for the influence of terrorists.
So we drove around the Kremlin and Red Square and took pictures. Visited many memorials. Town is full of sculptures and memorials to WWII, beautiful peaceful walks. The city is nice, has much appeal, but with traffic and busy-busy life here, St. Petersburg wins. There is however in both big cities, lots of parks and green tree lined streets. Good planning has made the city life somewhat appealing here.
On to Vladimir and Suzdal. This was the highlight of the Moscow trip. I have some great shots of ancient (12th century churches), flowing river, fields of flowers. Everything green green green. We toured a reconstructed old village, with windmills, peasant homes and churches. Very nice visual history lesson. Independence day, June 12, is what I would call the new independence day here. This was the day Russians recognize as their day of independence after the break up of the Soviet Union in 1991. We toured both of these historical cities on that day. It was a special treat, the streets were blocked off for walking, they had festivals with crafts, parachute jumpers, the whole bit. A fun look at how they celebrate here.
The last day, Sunday, we decided to “tour” the Moscow metro. Moscow’s metro, has more than any other major city metro I’ve ever been on, some beautiful wall coverings and mosaics in the stations on the main line circling the city. Many stations have themes, or dedications to some group, like mariners, world peace etc.
We decided to stop at city center and just see if the Red square was open. And IT WAS!!! Oh this is good!! So I did get to tour red square after all. Pictures only tell the story. The Kremlin, where President Putin resides, was still closed, but I was really happy to tour the square. It was still decorated with huge emblems of the country and city shields. This must have been quite a celebration here for VIP’s.
It was good to be back to St Petersburg! It feels like home compared to the busy city life in Moscow.
No time to upload pictures today, look for them tonight (15th or tomorrow 16th)
Well it’s a couple more days here, then I fly a distance about equivalent to twice across the US, to Irkutsk in eastern Siberia. Wow, that has a ring to it doesn’t it. Eastern Siberia. I hope to prove it IS a nice place to see! I will stay there for 2 days before boarding the Trans Mongolian railway on across Mongolia to China.
More later..
Yours in Travel
Bill
June 10, 2004
Touring Saint Petersburg
This beautiful city was founded by the Peter the Great in 1703. Peter wanted to establish a stronghold with passage on the Baltic Sea. This would provide a good position to oppose the Swedes, which were one of the strongest countries in Europe at the time. Only an autocrat with Peter’s drive could have succeeded in building a city like this on a complete bogland on the Finnish Gulf. It was thought that as many as 40,000 prisoner/workers died building the city. Peter also wanted to bring some of the skills and beauty of Europe to his country. He made some long trips to Europe, and brought Russia out of a somewhat medieval existence to a more modern city and lifestyle. He learned the marine trades from the Dutch and developed the Russian maritime world as a result.
It is a beautiful city set on the delta area of the Neva river. Since it is in a river delta area, the center of the city extends over many islands connected by a number of bridges. With gold topped cathedrals, neo-classical and 18’th century architecture dominant in the buildings all over the city, it is a joy to tour. I think this is truly one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.
I was lucky to have toured a couple of days with a younger friend of Vadims. Sasha at 17 years old, is completing his lower schooling and will enter “the university” as a student in nuclear physics. He is the third generation nuclear physicst. Both his father and grandfather were professors in the field. What a joy to chat and tour with this very mature, knowledgeable young man. Sasha said he really wanted the opportunity to practice his English on a “real” English-speaking foreigner. A Win-win for me !
I also met one of my fellow classmates from my Russian class in San Diego, Elisa. Elisa and her friend Cassidy are here on an Arizona State Univ. Study program. What a great opportunity for them to really learn Russian life and the language. Cassidy and Elisa took me thru the paces of shopping in the city! Elisa is a very good bargainer!! Haaaaaaaa. They are wonderful young ladies, it was a joy to spend the day with them.
My tours included walking Nevskiy Prospect (prospect is word for large avenue in Russia), visiting St. Isaac cathedral, the Cathedral of Spilled Blood (beautiful colorful cathedral with domed towers that resembles the St. Basil cathedral in Red square that we all see in the background when the media is in Moscow!! You HAVE to see pictures!), The Kunstkamera museum, the Peter and Paul Fortress, and the Kronstadt Island area.
But even more fascinating than seeing the “must see” museums and sites, was my opportunity to drive around the city, into the outskirts of town, and experience some sites and cultural “involvements” that the normal tourist on the crowed bus with a “My name is…” badge on doesn’t get to experience. I’m blessed with this opportunity that my new Russian family has provided me by staying with them.
I was allowed to tour the Baltika brewery, only because Vadim’s friend Victor works there. I joined a small tour of Finnish students. The brewery is a classic example of new capitalistic success. They produce 3,000,000 liters per day of beer here. Baltika’s 5 plants nationwide supply 20% of Russia’s beer. They export about 8% of their stock. I looked out over their warehouse area 2 hectares (help somebody convert that) HUGE, forklifts buzzing. They turn this whole warehouse over in 48 hours!! A Lot of beer. I thought they only drank vodka here!
But most important, after the tour, Vadim said “Bill, we meet with Victor in his garage after tour…Russian tradition” Hmmm ok. Vadim takes a stereo and a bottle of vodka over to Victor’s garage, traded it for a case of beer, and we begin a wonderful after-work party, toasting to our health. Nice set up on garage bench, o’doerves (sp?) and vodka chasers. Again language barrier NOT a barrier, this was an amazing experience. Alex joined us, he works for local electric utility.
And I toured a Russian WWII submarine. D-II, was launched in 1931 and served in the North Sea during the war. Six German sub kills. The tour went thru the restored sub. I have some great pictures of highly respected marine war medals, flags, and the interior of the sub. This was a special tour.
I had a nice drive to the newer part of St. Petersburg. In and around the city I have been seeing housing developments around town built mostly in the 70’s and 80’s. There are two areas that are expanding like an explosion for the new Russian yuppie population. Built in the last 4 or 5 years. It looks like a Maimi Beach. Huge lines of new highrise. We had tea and cakes with Vadim’s friends Lena. Her apartment is typical of the new, successful younger set. Modern German complete built-in metal finish kitchen system. Built in aquarium and gorgeous view of the gulf.
We finally got home at 11PM, when the sun was just setting!! After retiring to bed last night in the dacha, a one room living room where we all sleep, in the dark, we traded laughs trying to pronounce each others words. When Vadim is pressing me hard about my inability to pronounce something, I say “Vadim say EARLY” Much like the Asians trying to say their “r’s” the Russian’s naturally developed movements of their tongue don’t quite make it on some of our “r” words. At least I have a shot to fire back!! Haaaaaaaa
My stay in St. Petersburg has been an amazing experience. Tonight I head for Moscow with my “family.” We drive to Moscow, about a 6 hour drive, and we will meet Vadim’s friend Ury, who is a Moscow city policeman. Ury will be our tour guide in Moscow. I have the feeling we may get a somewhat special view of the city. Also included on this trip will be short excursions to the old historical cities of Suzdal and Vladimir.
I’ll check back with you early next week on my experiences there.
I should have some pictures either today or tomorrow, so you can check the link above. Vadim has been so busy at work, I haven’t had time to steal his PC and get them up online. They will be there soon.
Yours in travel,
Bill
It is a beautiful city set on the delta area of the Neva river. Since it is in a river delta area, the center of the city extends over many islands connected by a number of bridges. With gold topped cathedrals, neo-classical and 18’th century architecture dominant in the buildings all over the city, it is a joy to tour. I think this is truly one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.
I was lucky to have toured a couple of days with a younger friend of Vadims. Sasha at 17 years old, is completing his lower schooling and will enter “the university” as a student in nuclear physics. He is the third generation nuclear physicst. Both his father and grandfather were professors in the field. What a joy to chat and tour with this very mature, knowledgeable young man. Sasha said he really wanted the opportunity to practice his English on a “real” English-speaking foreigner. A Win-win for me !
I also met one of my fellow classmates from my Russian class in San Diego, Elisa. Elisa and her friend Cassidy are here on an Arizona State Univ. Study program. What a great opportunity for them to really learn Russian life and the language. Cassidy and Elisa took me thru the paces of shopping in the city! Elisa is a very good bargainer!! Haaaaaaaa. They are wonderful young ladies, it was a joy to spend the day with them.
My tours included walking Nevskiy Prospect (prospect is word for large avenue in Russia), visiting St. Isaac cathedral, the Cathedral of Spilled Blood (beautiful colorful cathedral with domed towers that resembles the St. Basil cathedral in Red square that we all see in the background when the media is in Moscow!! You HAVE to see pictures!), The Kunstkamera museum, the Peter and Paul Fortress, and the Kronstadt Island area.
But even more fascinating than seeing the “must see” museums and sites, was my opportunity to drive around the city, into the outskirts of town, and experience some sites and cultural “involvements” that the normal tourist on the crowed bus with a “My name is…” badge on doesn’t get to experience. I’m blessed with this opportunity that my new Russian family has provided me by staying with them.
I was allowed to tour the Baltika brewery, only because Vadim’s friend Victor works there. I joined a small tour of Finnish students. The brewery is a classic example of new capitalistic success. They produce 3,000,000 liters per day of beer here. Baltika’s 5 plants nationwide supply 20% of Russia’s beer. They export about 8% of their stock. I looked out over their warehouse area 2 hectares (help somebody convert that) HUGE, forklifts buzzing. They turn this whole warehouse over in 48 hours!! A Lot of beer. I thought they only drank vodka here!
But most important, after the tour, Vadim said “Bill, we meet with Victor in his garage after tour…Russian tradition” Hmmm ok. Vadim takes a stereo and a bottle of vodka over to Victor’s garage, traded it for a case of beer, and we begin a wonderful after-work party, toasting to our health. Nice set up on garage bench, o’doerves (sp?) and vodka chasers. Again language barrier NOT a barrier, this was an amazing experience. Alex joined us, he works for local electric utility.
And I toured a Russian WWII submarine. D-II, was launched in 1931 and served in the North Sea during the war. Six German sub kills. The tour went thru the restored sub. I have some great pictures of highly respected marine war medals, flags, and the interior of the sub. This was a special tour.
I had a nice drive to the newer part of St. Petersburg. In and around the city I have been seeing housing developments around town built mostly in the 70’s and 80’s. There are two areas that are expanding like an explosion for the new Russian yuppie population. Built in the last 4 or 5 years. It looks like a Maimi Beach. Huge lines of new highrise. We had tea and cakes with Vadim’s friends Lena. Her apartment is typical of the new, successful younger set. Modern German complete built-in metal finish kitchen system. Built in aquarium and gorgeous view of the gulf.
We finally got home at 11PM, when the sun was just setting!! After retiring to bed last night in the dacha, a one room living room where we all sleep, in the dark, we traded laughs trying to pronounce each others words. When Vadim is pressing me hard about my inability to pronounce something, I say “Vadim say EARLY” Much like the Asians trying to say their “r’s” the Russian’s naturally developed movements of their tongue don’t quite make it on some of our “r” words. At least I have a shot to fire back!! Haaaaaaaa
My stay in St. Petersburg has been an amazing experience. Tonight I head for Moscow with my “family.” We drive to Moscow, about a 6 hour drive, and we will meet Vadim’s friend Ury, who is a Moscow city policeman. Ury will be our tour guide in Moscow. I have the feeling we may get a somewhat special view of the city. Also included on this trip will be short excursions to the old historical cities of Suzdal and Vladimir.
I’ll check back with you early next week on my experiences there.
I should have some pictures either today or tomorrow, so you can check the link above. Vadim has been so busy at work, I haven’t had time to steal his PC and get them up online. They will be there soon.
Yours in travel,
Bill
June 6, 2004
My New Russian Family
I am staying with the Bolotin Family in St Petersburg. I met Vadim some years ago on the Internet and we planned to someday meet. Vadim’s wife, Olya, is a graduate computer engineer from the Technical Institute here in St. Petersburg (StP). Vadim’s daughter, Sveta is a student here in StP studying in the public relations field. The students are currently heavily involved in their examinations, so Sveta is quite busy. Sveta is incredibly fluent in English. She has an excellent command of both vocabulary and pronunciation. She has helped translate my conversations in the past. Vadim and Olya both work at a language school that was established here in StP about 25 years ago.
Vadim and Olya live in an apartment in the north end of town. It is a single room apartment about 500 sq. ft including a kitchen, like our studio apartments at home. It’s in a 12 story building on the main street. The majority of the residents in town live in high-rise apartments surrounding the center of the city. You can easily get visually lost driving around the residential area because all the residential area looks so similar for miles around the town center. Haa I bet they would say the same about our miles and miles of single story homes !
Vadim has a country house or “dasha” about 20 minutes out of town. This is also very typical in Russia, to own a dasha in the country. It provides a nice escape from the busy city. Daily we have been staying in the dasha, then come back in town to shower and prepare for the day.
The dasha is in a small city surrounded by forest north of StP. It’s a beautiful escape. It has no piped water, but nice wood stove, kitchen and large dining/living room for eating and entertaining.
I really feel blessed to have this opportunity to experience daily life in a Russian home. Although I know very little Russian, and Olya and Vadim know a bit of English, its amazing how well we communicate, laugh, look up words, and generally enjoy each others company. When Sveta left me with Olya and Vadim after picking me up at the airport, she said “Call if you have a problem”…haaaaa she was worried about our ability to communicate. It has been no problem, actually on the contrary, the communication has been an interesting, enjoyable fun challenge for us all. NOTE: (Marla, (my Russian Teacher ) I’m indebted to you for your help. Everyone has said my pronunciation is very good! And although I struggle with a lack of vocabulary, knowing the Cyrillic alphabet, and being able to pronounce Russian words correctly has been incredibly effective. With a limited vocabulary, I’m in the Russian dictionary often, but all in all communication going very well. Just wait till I get into China, that will be the challenge. haaaa
I have so many funny stories to tell about the relationships that we have developed, but no time here. One I must talk about is the man and woman’s role in the Russian home. Olya takes a pretty domestic role. I just can’t do anything without getting in trouble. Vadim kids about Olya the “Engineer cook” And I press Vadim with give her a break “Give her a holiday”…”Revolution”, like the Bolshevics I say. Vadim, with a very concerned look says “Bill NO NO Revolution.” The constant joke around here now is Engineer Cook and Revolution!
Again I’m blessed, this has been much more joy and more of an amazing experience, than I anticipated.
Yesterday, we had a party at the dasha with Vadim’s close friends and Sveta and her boy friend. What a great time. I did my first round of Vodka toasts. We toasted every ones birthday. I sipped the vodka and Vadim said NO NO NO bill, don’t sip like whisky, drink it down!!!
After a shot of vodka, comes a bite of dell pickle. Vadim takes a shot, smells the pickle and takes a bite. Boy the important things you learn in a culture
Last night I had a dinner with Vadims parents who are in their late 80’s. They were anxious to meet me as I was to meet them. This was an opportunity to meet and talk to the older Russian generation. Isaac, Vadims father fought in WW II in the Russian army as an anti aircraft gunner on the ground in Moscow. Margarita, Vadims mother, endured the siege of Stalingrad, and actually earned medals for her volunteer activities during that time.
Margarita served potatoe pancakes, a traditional dish from her home in Belarussia. Although there as an age gap, and there memories were fading, AND a language gap, we enjoyed many laughs and exchanges. This was a very special meeting. Isaac got out his coat covered with WWII medals, put it on and I took pictures with him. What a memorable experience. Just think back in the 50’s and 60’s these wonderful people were supposedly our enemies. So much for politics and power.
Be back in a few days!!
Vadim and Olya live in an apartment in the north end of town. It is a single room apartment about 500 sq. ft including a kitchen, like our studio apartments at home. It’s in a 12 story building on the main street. The majority of the residents in town live in high-rise apartments surrounding the center of the city. You can easily get visually lost driving around the residential area because all the residential area looks so similar for miles around the town center. Haa I bet they would say the same about our miles and miles of single story homes !
Vadim has a country house or “dasha” about 20 minutes out of town. This is also very typical in Russia, to own a dasha in the country. It provides a nice escape from the busy city. Daily we have been staying in the dasha, then come back in town to shower and prepare for the day.
The dasha is in a small city surrounded by forest north of StP. It’s a beautiful escape. It has no piped water, but nice wood stove, kitchen and large dining/living room for eating and entertaining.
I really feel blessed to have this opportunity to experience daily life in a Russian home. Although I know very little Russian, and Olya and Vadim know a bit of English, its amazing how well we communicate, laugh, look up words, and generally enjoy each others company. When Sveta left me with Olya and Vadim after picking me up at the airport, she said “Call if you have a problem”…haaaaa she was worried about our ability to communicate. It has been no problem, actually on the contrary, the communication has been an interesting, enjoyable fun challenge for us all. NOTE: (Marla, (my Russian Teacher ) I’m indebted to you for your help. Everyone has said my pronunciation is very good! And although I struggle with a lack of vocabulary, knowing the Cyrillic alphabet, and being able to pronounce Russian words correctly has been incredibly effective. With a limited vocabulary, I’m in the Russian dictionary often, but all in all communication going very well. Just wait till I get into China, that will be the challenge. haaaa
I have so many funny stories to tell about the relationships that we have developed, but no time here. One I must talk about is the man and woman’s role in the Russian home. Olya takes a pretty domestic role. I just can’t do anything without getting in trouble. Vadim kids about Olya the “Engineer cook” And I press Vadim with give her a break “Give her a holiday”…”Revolution”, like the Bolshevics I say. Vadim, with a very concerned look says “Bill NO NO Revolution.” The constant joke around here now is Engineer Cook and Revolution!
Again I’m blessed, this has been much more joy and more of an amazing experience, than I anticipated.
Yesterday, we had a party at the dasha with Vadim’s close friends and Sveta and her boy friend. What a great time. I did my first round of Vodka toasts. We toasted every ones birthday. I sipped the vodka and Vadim said NO NO NO bill, don’t sip like whisky, drink it down!!!
After a shot of vodka, comes a bite of dell pickle. Vadim takes a shot, smells the pickle and takes a bite. Boy the important things you learn in a culture
Last night I had a dinner with Vadims parents who are in their late 80’s. They were anxious to meet me as I was to meet them. This was an opportunity to meet and talk to the older Russian generation. Isaac, Vadims father fought in WW II in the Russian army as an anti aircraft gunner on the ground in Moscow. Margarita, Vadims mother, endured the siege of Stalingrad, and actually earned medals for her volunteer activities during that time.
Margarita served potatoe pancakes, a traditional dish from her home in Belarussia. Although there as an age gap, and there memories were fading, AND a language gap, we enjoyed many laughs and exchanges. This was a very special meeting. Isaac got out his coat covered with WWII medals, put it on and I took pictures with him. What a memorable experience. Just think back in the 50’s and 60’s these wonderful people were supposedly our enemies. So much for politics and power.
Be back in a few days!!
June 2, 2004
The Flights - An Adventure too
Who said the flights can't be part of the adventure. I don't think I have written much about the flights in my past trip journals, but they can be an adventure in themselves sometimes. Other times sort of ho hum. I fly 4.5 hours to Wash D.C, then 6.5 hours to Amsterdam, then 2.5 hours to St. Petersburg (thats Russia, not Florida....uh oh, wonder where my luggage is going?, hope its not in Florida)
Out of San Diego, since warnings were "get there 3 hours early" I had Phyllis take me there at 5:30 since all the mass transit is asleep at that hour! (She was great sport about it, thanks hon!) Of course, everything went smoothly and I was checked in by 6:00. Either the systems are getting better or I'm getting luckier.
Luck ran out, at least by perception. We get on the plane and pilot says "3 out of 4 of the "labs" aren't working"..Lab is bathroom in flight vernacular. Full plane, one lab, means worse situation than if one engine didn't work. They fix them thank goodness and we are off. Smooth flight to Washington DC. Then I find out that my connecting flight to Amsterdam has been delayed an hour. Our plane is in Philadelphia. Lot of good that will do me!
I'm worried about making my connection to St. Petersburg. My flight to St. P is a like once a week type flight. I ask a Dutch student in waiting area bout the problem. "you'll never make it" oh oh, time to panic. Call travel agent (thanks Shirley P!) for a back up plan. Seems KLM has lots of flights if I miss this one. Then talk to an experienced flight attendent, after we get our new plane lined up. She says "no sweat", but what seat do you have .."40g" ..she says uh oh! way in the back, and laughs...haaaa
So a tiny stressed, but worry about that later, I fly to Amsterdam. I trade my seat to get closr to the door to run when we arrive, and I get seated next to Chris. Chris is a chemical engineer from Holland. He is a chemical weapons inspector for an organization affiliated with the UN. Wow !! does Chris have some stories. He also is an adventurer like me. Told me about his last trip to East Africa, etc. Well we end up yakking all night!! never sleep, but the flight went extremely fast.
Flight attendent, not Dutch student, was right, I had one hour to spare at Amsterdam airport. No sweat.
I take the flight to St petersburg. Its a Russian Jet, no Boeing plane here!!! a 737 clone but about 30 years old. We are bussed out to the tarmac where we walk up the gangplank, in the mist, and board the plane. But all in all, nice plane. Food was great, first class seats were funny..just one clostrophobic row.
Sat next to a Russian woman and her cute, very good two year old baby. She spoke excellent English, so learned abit more about St. Petersburg and the recent collapse of the Soviet Union, what life was like.
After clearing customs, there was my Russian friend and family greeting me at the gate!
You know, its kinda nice to have someone meet you at the gate, specially when its in a strange place. All smiling big. And we did a big Russian-meets-American bear hug.
The airport is south of the city. The Bolotin's live about an hour in the north. So we drove thru the beautiful city of Saint Petersburg on the way. I got my first glimpse. Wow, monuments, palaces, churches. I have a lot to see here. Sveta, Vadim's daughter speaks English very well. She interpreted along the way.
We reached their apartment in about an hour. Nice one room flat on the 7th floor of a large complex off a main street. Tonight a family home cooked meal and good conversation.
Hey, I can't believe it, I'm in Russia !!!!.
Will fill you in more tonight. See the flight can be an adventure too.
Bill
billwilson@pocketmail.com
Out of San Diego, since warnings were "get there 3 hours early" I had Phyllis take me there at 5:30 since all the mass transit is asleep at that hour! (She was great sport about it, thanks hon!) Of course, everything went smoothly and I was checked in by 6:00. Either the systems are getting better or I'm getting luckier.
Luck ran out, at least by perception. We get on the plane and pilot says "3 out of 4 of the "labs" aren't working"..Lab is bathroom in flight vernacular. Full plane, one lab, means worse situation than if one engine didn't work. They fix them thank goodness and we are off. Smooth flight to Washington DC. Then I find out that my connecting flight to Amsterdam has been delayed an hour. Our plane is in Philadelphia. Lot of good that will do me!
I'm worried about making my connection to St. Petersburg. My flight to St. P is a like once a week type flight. I ask a Dutch student in waiting area bout the problem. "you'll never make it" oh oh, time to panic. Call travel agent (thanks Shirley P!) for a back up plan. Seems KLM has lots of flights if I miss this one. Then talk to an experienced flight attendent, after we get our new plane lined up. She says "no sweat", but what seat do you have .."40g" ..she says uh oh! way in the back, and laughs...haaaa
So a tiny stressed, but worry about that later, I fly to Amsterdam. I trade my seat to get closr to the door to run when we arrive, and I get seated next to Chris. Chris is a chemical engineer from Holland. He is a chemical weapons inspector for an organization affiliated with the UN. Wow !! does Chris have some stories. He also is an adventurer like me. Told me about his last trip to East Africa, etc. Well we end up yakking all night!! never sleep, but the flight went extremely fast.
Flight attendent, not Dutch student, was right, I had one hour to spare at Amsterdam airport. No sweat.
I take the flight to St petersburg. Its a Russian Jet, no Boeing plane here!!! a 737 clone but about 30 years old. We are bussed out to the tarmac where we walk up the gangplank, in the mist, and board the plane. But all in all, nice plane. Food was great, first class seats were funny..just one clostrophobic row.
Sat next to a Russian woman and her cute, very good two year old baby. She spoke excellent English, so learned abit more about St. Petersburg and the recent collapse of the Soviet Union, what life was like.
After clearing customs, there was my Russian friend and family greeting me at the gate!
You know, its kinda nice to have someone meet you at the gate, specially when its in a strange place. All smiling big. And we did a big Russian-meets-American bear hug.
The airport is south of the city. The Bolotin's live about an hour in the north. So we drove thru the beautiful city of Saint Petersburg on the way. I got my first glimpse. Wow, monuments, palaces, churches. I have a lot to see here. Sveta, Vadim's daughter speaks English very well. She interpreted along the way.
We reached their apartment in about an hour. Nice one room flat on the 7th floor of a large complex off a main street. Tonight a family home cooked meal and good conversation.
Hey, I can't believe it, I'm in Russia !!!!.
Will fill you in more tonight. See the flight can be an adventure too.
Bill
billwilson@pocketmail.com
May 12, 2004
Pre-Departure Notes - THE TRIP
Hi Family and Friends !
You found my "blogger". Just save this web address, and check back here frequently after June 1, 2004 to join me on my adventure in Russia and China. I'll try to post new messages here once or twice a week. Also I have a link to my photo albums in the description at the top. I'll try to upload some pictures on the trip if the internet cafe pc's cooperate with me.
I'll enjoy having you along. If you miss coming here for awhile, my journal of notes will remain here on this site in the "archives" in the panel on the left. (Click on the date)
Basic itinerary is 20 days in Russia and 20 days in China. I'll begin the trip in St. Petersburg staying with a Russian family. Vadim Bolotin and his family will take me under their wings and show me their beautiful city. Following that is Moscow, then on to Irkutsk, in the far eastern siberia. I hope to do some trekking around Irkutsk. From Irkutsk I board the trans Mongolian railway on a 3 day trip across eastern Russia and Mongolia. This ancient trade route between China and Russia ends up in the incredible city of Beijing, China
From Beijing I work my way south in eastern China, cruise the Yangzi river to see the famous 3 river gorges before they are totally filled by the new dam. I will visit the terracotta soldiers in Xian, tour beautiful Guilin and the Li River and drop in on as many small Chinese villages as I can in the little time I have. I finish up the trip in Hong Kong.
Talk to you on the road...
Yours in travel,
Bill
billwilson@pocketmail.com (My email address while on travel)
You found my "blogger". Just save this web address, and check back here frequently after June 1, 2004 to join me on my adventure in Russia and China. I'll try to post new messages here once or twice a week. Also I have a link to my photo albums in the description at the top. I'll try to upload some pictures on the trip if the internet cafe pc's cooperate with me.
I'll enjoy having you along. If you miss coming here for awhile, my journal of notes will remain here on this site in the "archives" in the panel on the left. (Click on the date)
Basic itinerary is 20 days in Russia and 20 days in China. I'll begin the trip in St. Petersburg staying with a Russian family. Vadim Bolotin and his family will take me under their wings and show me their beautiful city. Following that is Moscow, then on to Irkutsk, in the far eastern siberia. I hope to do some trekking around Irkutsk. From Irkutsk I board the trans Mongolian railway on a 3 day trip across eastern Russia and Mongolia. This ancient trade route between China and Russia ends up in the incredible city of Beijing, China
From Beijing I work my way south in eastern China, cruise the Yangzi river to see the famous 3 river gorges before they are totally filled by the new dam. I will visit the terracotta soldiers in Xian, tour beautiful Guilin and the Li River and drop in on as many small Chinese villages as I can in the little time I have. I finish up the trip in Hong Kong.
Talk to you on the road...
Yours in travel,
Bill
billwilson@pocketmail.com (My email address while on travel)
