April 1, Hanoi Vietnam
Hi all,
About 200 miles north of Hanoi in the northern portion of Vietnam lie the
mountain ranges that border China. In this mountainous region also known as
the Tonkinese Alps, filled with cascading rice terraces and lush vegetation
lies the city of Sapa. Sapa is a popular destination because it puts you
among a diverse population of hill peoples. Sapa is a trekking hub where you
can hike out in several directions and visit 3 or 4 of Vietnam's 54 ethnic
groups.
Sapa is reached best by train, the usual method being a night train leaving
Hanoi about 8PM, then arriving in Lao Cai the next day about 5AM. Then a one hour ride
from 1500 feet elevation up to Sapa at 5000 feet elevation. Sapa was in the
colonial days, a mountain resort that provided an escape from the hustle
bustle of big city to the cool mountains - it remains that today.
The trip to Sapa was one of the highlights of my trip to Vietnam.
I met my local guide, Ta, raised near Ha Giang, a small village about 50 km from Sapa. Ta was
amazing. Over the 2 days he shared his knowledge of the people and the
area, and assisted me in trekking to visit 3 different mountain villages and to
interact with many local residents. Many of the locals wear native, very
colorful clothes, with color schemes representing their respective heritage.
Among the peoples visited were the Black Moung (mung), Red Dao (tszow),
and the Day (tsai).
I was very lucky Ta said. The weather is hazy, but clear. It can be very foggy
in Sapa. The last few days he said you could hardly see 10 meters ahead on
the road.
When you arrive, you are surrounded by the ethnic ladies in their costumes
with a large hand woven baskets on their backs, carrying purses, cloth belts, and other all
handmade objects. Many will follow you for hours hoping to make the big
sale. Most have a small child wrapped in a cloth backpack. At first it's a bit
intimidating, you are a bit offended, then with a little time you converse, laugh,
take pictures, and as they put it, you are their "new friend". Their technique
works, after several hours and 5 to 10 km hikes, you give in and buy
something!!!
Right off the night train, in the early morning Ta took me through the Sapa
market. This was a REAL local city market, fresh vegetables, fish, chickens
including black chickens, all kinds of meat including the unmentionable....yes
dog. Tables set up with locals having the usual morning soup for breakfast.
No trip to a small village is complete without a trip through the local market.
This whole area is incredibly beautiful with deep valleys, many terraced rice
paddies, water buffalo, and hiking trails all over with lush green forests of
bamboo.
I took a 6km trek the first day to visit the Black Moung in the Cat Cat village.
The second day, an 11km hike down a long river valley to visit the Red Dao
and Day peoples. Yea..I gave in and bought several things to support the
local communities. They are good saleswomen. You bargain and bargain and end up with a agreed upon price. You get handmade items taking hours of work for very few dollars.
This was a wonderful pause from the busy city of Hanoi. Back to the city, for
my last 3 days.
Photos: Night train to Sapa; at the market; black chicken; villagers shopping; Sapa town; little Black Moung; trekkers and their "followers"; water buffalo; incredible valley; my guide Ta; my "new friends"
Video: An encounter with the water buffalo
- Bill
