"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade wind in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." --Mark Twain

June 10, 2004

Touring Saint Petersburg

This beautiful city was founded by the Peter the Great in 1703. Peter wanted to establish a stronghold with passage on the Baltic Sea. This would provide a good position to oppose the Swedes, which were one of the strongest countries in Europe at the time. Only an autocrat with Peter’s drive could have succeeded in building a city like this on a complete bogland on the Finnish Gulf. It was thought that as many as 40,000 prisoner/workers died building the city. Peter also wanted to bring some of the skills and beauty of Europe to his country. He made some long trips to Europe, and brought Russia out of a somewhat medieval existence to a more modern city and lifestyle. He learned the marine trades from the Dutch and developed the Russian maritime world as a result.

It is a beautiful city set on the delta area of the Neva river. Since it is in a river delta area, the center of the city extends over many islands connected by a number of bridges. With gold topped cathedrals, neo-classical and 18’th century architecture dominant in the buildings all over the city, it is a joy to tour. I think this is truly one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

I was lucky to have toured a couple of days with a younger friend of Vadims. Sasha at 17 years old, is completing his lower schooling and will enter “the university” as a student in nuclear physics. He is the third generation nuclear physicst. Both his father and grandfather were professors in the field. What a joy to chat and tour with this very mature, knowledgeable young man. Sasha said he really wanted the opportunity to practice his English on a “real” English-speaking foreigner. A Win-win for me !

I also met one of my fellow classmates from my Russian class in San Diego, Elisa. Elisa and her friend Cassidy are here on an Arizona State Univ. Study program. What a great opportunity for them to really learn Russian life and the language. Cassidy and Elisa took me thru the paces of shopping in the city! Elisa is a very good bargainer!! Haaaaaaaa. They are wonderful young ladies, it was a joy to spend the day with them.

My tours included walking Nevskiy Prospect (prospect is word for large avenue in Russia), visiting St. Isaac cathedral, the Cathedral of Spilled Blood (beautiful colorful cathedral with domed towers that resembles the St. Basil cathedral in Red square that we all see in the background when the media is in Moscow!! You HAVE to see pictures!), The Kunstkamera museum, the Peter and Paul Fortress, and the Kronstadt Island area.

But even more fascinating than seeing the “must see” museums and sites, was my opportunity to drive around the city, into the outskirts of town, and experience some sites and cultural “involvements” that the normal tourist on the crowed bus with a “My name is…” badge on doesn’t get to experience. I’m blessed with this opportunity that my new Russian family has provided me by staying with them.

I was allowed to tour the Baltika brewery, only because Vadim’s friend Victor works there. I joined a small tour of Finnish students. The brewery is a classic example of new capitalistic success. They produce 3,000,000 liters per day of beer here. Baltika’s 5 plants nationwide supply 20% of Russia’s beer. They export about 8% of their stock. I looked out over their warehouse area 2 hectares (help somebody convert that) HUGE, forklifts buzzing. They turn this whole warehouse over in 48 hours!! A Lot of beer. I thought they only drank vodka here!

But most important, after the tour, Vadim said “Bill, we meet with Victor in his garage after tour…Russian tradition” Hmmm ok. Vadim takes a stereo and a bottle of vodka over to Victor’s garage, traded it for a case of beer, and we begin a wonderful after-work party, toasting to our health. Nice set up on garage bench, o’doerves (sp?) and vodka chasers. Again language barrier NOT a barrier, this was an amazing experience. Alex joined us, he works for local electric utility.

And I toured a Russian WWII submarine. D-II, was launched in 1931 and served in the North Sea during the war. Six German sub kills. The tour went thru the restored sub. I have some great pictures of highly respected marine war medals, flags, and the interior of the sub. This was a special tour.

I had a nice drive to the newer part of St. Petersburg. In and around the city I have been seeing housing developments around town built mostly in the 70’s and 80’s. There are two areas that are expanding like an explosion for the new Russian yuppie population. Built in the last 4 or 5 years. It looks like a Maimi Beach. Huge lines of new highrise. We had tea and cakes with Vadim’s friends Lena. Her apartment is typical of the new, successful younger set. Modern German complete built-in metal finish kitchen system. Built in aquarium and gorgeous view of the gulf.

We finally got home at 11PM, when the sun was just setting!! After retiring to bed last night in the dacha, a one room living room where we all sleep, in the dark, we traded laughs trying to pronounce each others words. When Vadim is pressing me hard about my inability to pronounce something, I say “Vadim say EARLY” Much like the Asians trying to say their “r’s” the Russian’s naturally developed movements of their tongue don’t quite make it on some of our “r” words. At least I have a shot to fire back!! Haaaaaaaa

My stay in St. Petersburg has been an amazing experience. Tonight I head for Moscow with my “family.” We drive to Moscow, about a 6 hour drive, and we will meet Vadim’s friend Ury, who is a Moscow city policeman. Ury will be our tour guide in Moscow. I have the feeling we may get a somewhat special view of the city. Also included on this trip will be short excursions to the old historical cities of Suzdal and Vladimir.


I’ll check back with you early next week on my experiences there.

I should have some pictures either today or tomorrow, so you can check the link above. Vadim has been so busy at work, I haven’t had time to steal his PC and get them up online. They will be there soon.

Yours in travel,
Bill

June 6, 2004

My New Russian Family

I am staying with the Bolotin Family in St Petersburg. I met Vadim some years ago on the Internet and we planned to someday meet. Vadim’s wife, Olya, is a graduate computer engineer from the Technical Institute here in St. Petersburg (StP). Vadim’s daughter, Sveta is a student here in StP studying in the public relations field. The students are currently heavily involved in their examinations, so Sveta is quite busy. Sveta is incredibly fluent in English. She has an excellent command of both vocabulary and pronunciation. She has helped translate my conversations in the past. Vadim and Olya both work at a language school that was established here in StP about 25 years ago.

Vadim and Olya live in an apartment in the north end of town. It is a single room apartment about 500 sq. ft including a kitchen, like our studio apartments at home. It’s in a 12 story building on the main street. The majority of the residents in town live in high-rise apartments surrounding the center of the city. You can easily get visually lost driving around the residential area because all the residential area looks so similar for miles around the town center. Haa I bet they would say the same about our miles and miles of single story homes !

Vadim has a country house or “dasha” about 20 minutes out of town. This is also very typical in Russia, to own a dasha in the country. It provides a nice escape from the busy city. Daily we have been staying in the dasha, then come back in town to shower and prepare for the day.

The dasha is in a small city surrounded by forest north of StP. It’s a beautiful escape. It has no piped water, but nice wood stove, kitchen and large dining/living room for eating and entertaining.

I really feel blessed to have this opportunity to experience daily life in a Russian home. Although I know very little Russian, and Olya and Vadim know a bit of English, its amazing how well we communicate, laugh, look up words, and generally enjoy each others company. When Sveta left me with Olya and Vadim after picking me up at the airport, she said “Call if you have a problem”…haaaaa she was worried about our ability to communicate. It has been no problem, actually on the contrary, the communication has been an interesting, enjoyable fun challenge for us all. NOTE: (Marla, (my Russian Teacher ) I’m indebted to you for your help. Everyone has said my pronunciation is very good! And although I struggle with a lack of vocabulary, knowing the Cyrillic alphabet, and being able to pronounce Russian words correctly has been incredibly effective. With a limited vocabulary, I’m in the Russian dictionary often, but all in all communication going very well. Just wait till I get into China, that will be the challenge. haaaa

I have so many funny stories to tell about the relationships that we have developed, but no time here. One I must talk about is the man and woman’s role in the Russian home. Olya takes a pretty domestic role. I just can’t do anything without getting in trouble. Vadim kids about Olya the “Engineer cook” And I press Vadim with give her a break “Give her a holiday”…”Revolution”, like the Bolshevics I say. Vadim, with a very concerned look says “Bill NO NO Revolution.” The constant joke around here now is Engineer Cook and Revolution!

Again I’m blessed, this has been much more joy and more of an amazing experience, than I anticipated.

Yesterday, we had a party at the dasha with Vadim’s close friends and Sveta and her boy friend. What a great time. I did my first round of Vodka toasts. We toasted every ones birthday. I sipped the vodka and Vadim said NO NO NO bill, don’t sip like whisky, drink it down!!!
After a shot of vodka, comes a bite of dell pickle. Vadim takes a shot, smells the pickle and takes a bite. Boy the important things you learn in a culture

Last night I had a dinner with Vadims parents who are in their late 80’s. They were anxious to meet me as I was to meet them. This was an opportunity to meet and talk to the older Russian generation. Isaac, Vadims father fought in WW II in the Russian army as an anti aircraft gunner on the ground in Moscow. Margarita, Vadims mother, endured the siege of Stalingrad, and actually earned medals for her volunteer activities during that time.

Margarita served potatoe pancakes, a traditional dish from her home in Belarussia. Although there as an age gap, and there memories were fading, AND a language gap, we enjoyed many laughs and exchanges. This was a very special meeting. Isaac got out his coat covered with WWII medals, put it on and I took pictures with him. What a memorable experience. Just think back in the 50’s and 60’s these wonderful people were supposedly our enemies. So much for politics and power.

Be back in a few days!!